He’s only two years old, but one day Jude Cryderman will tell his friends about the impact that his great, great, great, great grandmother had on the sausage scene in Southern Arizona.
This little tyke is the son of local chef Ivor Cryderman, whose homage to his great, great, great grandmother is now on display at a downtown restaurant where people are lining up to get a taste of tradition.
The story began a long time ago when a young Miss Szyszlo left her home in Poland behind for a new life in America. Ultimately putting down roots in Detroit, her family was welcomed into the city’s Polish community and soon became acquainted with the neighborhood butcher.
Routine visits to the meat case meant lots of pork on this Polish block, and Szyszlo ultimately developed her own recipe for a Polish sausage that would find itself being passed down through multiple generations of family members who agreed to keep her secrets safe.
“There’s definitely a secret to every sausage,” said Cryderman, today’s keeper of the keys to the family recipe and executive chef at Ten55 Brewing and Sausage Company, 110 E. Congress Street. Though he stopped short of disclosing all of the recipe’s details during my recent conversation with him, he did say that grandma was about keeping it simple, a principle that Cryderman suggests is no secret at all.
One modern expression of grandma’s recipe is replacing the water in her secret mash with beer, a wise move that I submit is a new way to honor her legacy. The beer is Ten55’s Leap Pale Ale, a medium-bodied malty brew with tropical hop notes and a mild spice that collectively complements the other seasonings.
This Szyszlo-inspired sausage, which is called the Polish Leap, is the centerpiece of Ten55’s menu that features 15 distinct sausages. Cryderman collaborated on all of the recipes with Tucson butcher Ben Forbes, who was later tapped to execute each of the eatery’s links, and this meant that Cryderman had to quietly share Szyszlo’s secret recipe with him.
This may explain the dotted Forbes line on the Szyszlo-Cryderman family tree. I’m sure he’s a hit at reunions.
In addition to the Polish Leap, Cryderman is also throwing down currywursts, bratwursts, bockwursts, a few plant-based sausages, and more exotic selections like a bison sausage with Hatch green chiles and roasted corn, a venison sausage with chiltepin peppers and sage, and a duck sausage with lemongrass and ginger.
You can top any of the sausages with sauerkraut, peppers and onions, chimichurri, or a white barbecue sauce, or make it “Sonoran Style” with yellow hot peppers, bacon, pinto beans, pico de gallo, mayonnaise, and mustard.
But back to Cryderman’s little dude, Jude. Given that his father is a chef, and his grandfather is a retired chef, and his great, great, great, great grandmother developed a sausage recipe withstanding the test of time, you might assume that he’ll be the family’s choice to be the next to accept the responsibility of holding the family secret.
“He’s only two, but he helps me at home in the kitchen with a small plastic fork and knife, and he plays with a Fisher-Price food truck,” Cryderman said.
Sounds to me like it’s in his blood. Perhaps one day he’ll do Grandma Szyszlo proud by mixing up her majesty for the next generation to enjoy.
Contact Matt Russell, whose day job is CEO of Russell Public Communications, at firstname.lastname@example.org. Russell is also the host of “On the Menu Live” that airs 5 to 6 p.m. Saturdays on KQTH 104.1 FM, as well as the host of the Friday Weekend Watch segment on the “Buckmaster Show” on KVOI 1030 AM.